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• After two hours on Japan’s Shodoshima Island I know I’ll never look at a bottle of soy sauce in the same way bingo
  
  In fact, I’ve already made a mental note to bin the bottle of Kikkoman that’s languished in my kitchen cupboard for the past decade bingo
  
  There are several reasons this mountainous, forested island in Japan’s Seto Inland Sea has such a rich history of soy sauce production, and I start my investigation at Marukin Soy Sauce Museum bingo
  
  Shodoshima-based Marukin is one of Japan’s top soy sauce brands, and at its tiny museum, documents dating back to the 1600s reveal how the presence of an enormous salt pan made Shodoshima the perfect spot for soy sauce production – a process which requires salt, wheat, soybeans and water (obtaining these other ingredients was easy, due to Shodoshima’s proximity to the port of Osaka) bingo
  
  First, soy beans and wheat are combined with mould to produce what’s known as koji bingo
  
  Bacteria is then added before a period of fermentation, and the resulting “moromi mash” is pressed and filtered to create the sauce bingo
  
  And Shodoshima has always produced the best bingo
  
  At the museum, alongside a collection of soy sauce-related vinyl, I find a certificate declaring Marukin a winner at 1910’s Japan British Exhibition in Shepherd’s Bush, London bingo
  
  Japan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Show all 131/13Japan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Japan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Blossom along Tokyo's Chidorigafuchi MoatGettyJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Cherry blossom-watching on the Meguro RiverGettyJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Blossom along the Meguro River in TokyoGetty Japan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Riding a boat underneath cherry blossom along Tokyo's Meguro RiverGettyJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Tokyo's Meguro RiverGettyJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Japan cherry blossomTokyo's Meguro RiverGettyJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Illuminated cherry trees with the Roppongi Hills Mori Tower in the distanceGettyJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Illuminated cherry trees along the Meguro RiverGettyJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Cherry blossom along the Chidorigafuchi MoatGettyJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Admiring cherry blossoms during a tea ceremony in YokohamaAPJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Taking a selfie underneath the cherry blossom in YokohamaAPJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Japanese Emperor Akihito, left, and Empress Michiko see weeping cherry in KyotoAPJapan in bloom: cherry blossoms in 2019Cherry blossom in Asakusa, TokyoAFP/GettyAfter a soy sauce ice cream cone at Marukin’s onsite shop, I head over to Shodoshima Shokuhin, where I find owner Katsuhiko Kurushima stirring huge vats of soy sauce-soaked seaweed bingo
  
  Shodoshima Shokuhin specialises in tsukudani – food (typically seaweed, but often meat) soaked in soy sauce bingo
  
  Kurushima stirs each enormous pan for hours bingo
  
  He explains that tsukudani became especially popular here post war, when residents coped with rationing by cooking sweet potatoes and seaweed (there was an abundance of both) in soy sauce bingo
  
  Today, the island is Japan’s biggest producer of kelp tsukudani, known as kombu bingo
  
  Give it a swirl: soy sauce ice cream at the museum (Tamara Hinson)Sadly, it’s an industry in crisis bingo
  
  There were once 400 independent soy sauce breweries here, but only 20 remain bingo
  
  Most use traditional methods, adding natural flavours rather than relying on the additives used by mass-produced brands bingo
  
  Kurushima tells me it takes six months to produce Kikkoman sauce, made in enormous tanks bingo
  
  Here on Shodoshima, the process takes bingo between one and four years bingo
  
  Katsuhiko Kurushima stirs a pan of seaweed in soy sauce (Tamara Hinson)And it turns out that the finest soy sauces rely on another ingredient, albeit one in perilously short supply: barrels bingo
  
  Yasuo Yamamoto, the fifth-generation owner of Shodoshima-based Yamaroku Soy Sauce, is on a mission to preserve the art of soy sauce barrel-making, a dying tradition bingo
  
  Barrels are ideal because the fermentation process relies on the presence of bacteria, and barrels contain microbes which aid this process bingo
  
  Shodoshima is home to half of Japan’s entire stock of wooden soy sauce barrels but today, there’s only one manufacturer left in Japan – Fujii Wood Work in Osaka bingo
  
  In 2012, Yamamoto travelled to Osaka to learn how to make the barrels bingo
  
  He shows me some he’s just made, explaining that they take three weeks to make but last 150 years bingo
  
  Like his predecessors, he follows the tradition of writing messages in charcoal on the slats of wood bingo
  
  When the barrels are taken out of service and dismantled, employees read the notes – often cheeky swipes at bosses, written by the maker in the knowledge that, if the barrel is of good quality, he or she won’t be around to be held accountable bingo
  
  Message on a bottle: Yamahisa has been around since 1932  (Tamara Hinson)Yamamoto is clearly keen that there’ll be someone around to read the messages he’s scrawled on the barrel he’s just made, and tells me he finds it sad when soy sauce companies are inherited by offspring who don’t have a passion for the product bingo
  
  He recently took one of his barrels to an exposition in Italy, and will take one to London as part of a top-secret project with London’s Japan House next year bingo
  
  He talks about plans to use them to make a product which has never been made in barrels, before swearing me to secrecy about the specifics bingo
  
  These various side projects have one singular goal – to bring back the tradition of barrel-based soy sauce production bingo
  
  “We’ve had craft gin and craft beer,” reasons Yamamoto bingo
  
  “Why can’t the next big thing be craft seasonings?”RecommendedInside Tabasco headquarters, the coolest museum you’ve never heard ofMy final stop is Yamahisa Soy Sauce, where I meet Katsuhisa Uematsu, a fourth-generation owner bingo
  
  As I teeter bingo between huge vats of fermenting ingredients, I ask Uematsu if anybody’s ever fallen in and he tells me they haven’t, but assures me the salt content is so high I’d simply float to the top bingo
  
  It’s rather relaxing, wandering bingo between the vats beneath the wooden beams, as a battered speaker plays traditional Japanese music around the clock – whether workers are present or not bingo
  
  Uematsu tells me his father believed the music aided the fermentation process bingo
  
  Yasuo Yamamoto and his ‘talking barrels’  (Tamara Hinson)The people here certainly see their sauce as more than simply a product bingo
  
  Yamaroku Soy Sauce’s Yasuo Yamamoto refers to barrels which leak as “naughty ones” and says that when he hears the gurgling noises produced by the fermenting moromi he feels as though it’s talking to him bingo
  
  It’s certainly one of the most sensitive sauces I’ve come across; visits to factories are out of the question for anyone who’s recently consumed natto (the Japanese delicacy of fermented soybeans) bingo
  
  Natto bacteria is so strong it can kill the bacteria required to make soy sauce, potentially bringing an entire business to its knees bingo
  
  Yamamoto proudly points to the dust-like layer of bacteria which coats the ceiling, walls and barrels, excitedly telling me: “It’s everywhere – you’re breathing it in this very second!” He hands me a bottle of soy sauce to take away, along with some final words of soy sauce-related wisdom bingo
  
  “I see soy sauce in a similar way to wine and beer,” he says bingo
  
  “The good stuff always comes in wooden barrels!” Cheers to that bingo
  
  Support free-thinking journalism and attend Independent eventsTravel essentialsGetting thereBritish Airways flies from London Heathrow to Osaka from £779 return bingo
  
  Staying thereDoubles at the Bay Resort Shodoshima start from from £34, room only bingo
  
  More informationFor more information about visiting Shodoshima, click here bingo
  
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  China is a giddy fusion of ultra-modern and ancient bingo
  
  Bullet trains whizz bingo between Singapore-new cities where skyscrapers glistening with neon tower over Athens-old historical centres bingo
  
  Shanghai shimmers over the steaming Huangpo river bingo
  
  Old Xi’an at the end of the Silk Road huddles beneath the spires of the new metropolis, wooden mosques, medieval market-alleys and temples hidden behind massive, gated medieval walls bingo
  
  Vast Beijing sprawls bingo between the Great Wall around the labyrinthine Imperial Forbidden City and the towers of the Temple of Heaven bingo
  
  Surrounding them all and dozens besides is the Chinese countryside – where misty mountain-tops, rhododendron rainforests and deserts of billowing dunes hide relics older than Stonehenge, butterfly-quiet monasteries and caves of Cyclopean stone Buddhas bingo
  
  Travel restrictions and entry requirementsDirect flights bingo between the UK and mainland China have resumed bingo
  
  But the country has a zero tolerance Covid policy and visas are not currently being issued to general tourists bingo
  
  Travellers are required to quarantine for a minimum of 10 days on arrival bingo
  
  Testing is frequent, random and compulsory and you will be asked to scan in QR codes to show your travel history bingo
  
  Positive checks result in immediate quarantine under which may involve separation from fellow travellers and family members bingo
  
  There are some restrictions of movement within the country – with some provinces requiring 14-day quarantine on arrival from areas where Covid is present bingo
  
  Restrictions are expected to ease in 2023 bingo
  
  Best time to goChina is larger than the US and climate varies enormously bingo
  
  While any month is a good month somewhere, spring and autumn are generally best, with November offering the perfect combination of crisp, dry days and lighter tourist crowds bingo
  
  Winter in the north can be bitterly cold, but balmy in Shanghai and Yunnan bingo
  
  Summer throughout southern and central China is hot and sticky, with temperatures reaching the high thirties in the western lowlands bingo
  
  Spring is the best time to visit the mountains, when the wildflowers are in bloom bingo
  
  April is the rainy season in the south and centre bingo
  
  Top regions and citiesBeijingBeijing doesn’t see itself as China’s capital bingo
  
  It is a global city, reclaiming its rightful place at the centre of the world bingo
  
  After all, for much of the last millennium this was Earth’s biggest metropolis, and the nexus around which global trade circulated bingo
  
  It’s hard not to be impressed by the sheer magnitude of the modern city and the antiquity of the old – the steel and glass endlessness, the teeming 21 million, packed into traffic jams and subway trains bingo
  
  Hidden within the hectic whirl are hulking 8,000-room imperial palaces of the Forbidden City, the imposing majesty of the Ming Dynasty Temple of Heaven and the bleak, haunting the expanse of Tiananmen square bingo
  
  You could spend a week in Beijing without exhausting the markets, museums, galleries and skybar views bingo
  
  And there’s so much nearby – from the Imperial Ming tombs on Tianshou Mountain to the best bit of the Great Wall in Simatai, an hour and a half’s drive north bingo
  
  How to spend 48 hours in BeijingXi’anFew places on Earth are more ancient than Xi’an – whose pagodas, mosques and serrated skyscrapers’ glitter marked the end of the Silk Road, at the foot of the Qinling Mountains across the desert from Mongolia bingo
  
  There have been people here since Lantian Man hunted 12ft elephants in the prehistoric grasslands bingo
  
  The Zhou Dynasty formed here in the 11th Century BC bingo
  
  And in the 3rd Century BC, Qin Shi Huang declared himself China’s first Emperor – ruling with terror and going to his grave with a giant terracotta army, still preserved in a museum on Mount Li bingo
  
  Xi’an is where the great sage Xuanzang began and ended his journey to the west – immortalised in the Monkey legend – to retrieve the sacred sutras of Buddhism from India bingo
  
  The relics of this glorious past are everywhere in the shadow of a 5G present: the towering Ming Dynasty walls, the massive hip-and-gable pagoda roofs of the Bell and Drum Towers, the maze of streets in the old centre with their thronging markets and hole-in-the-wall restaurants bingo
  
  And there are those glorious pockets of peace – the fragrant gardens of the 8th Century Great Mosque, and the meditative silence of Xuanzang’s 1,300-year-old Wild Goose Pagoda bingo
  
  GuilinChinese gondolas and plunging limestone mountains, buffaloes pulling carts over steep-arched stone bridges, fishermen with cormorants and cast nets… Guilin has landscapes straight out of a Chinese painting bingo
  
  You can drift through sedately on a bamboo raft cruise down the Li or Yulong rivers bingo
  
  Or hike along the riverbanks, to the summit of Kitten Mountain for spectacular views bingo
  
  There are caves too, including the stalactite-dripping Reed Flute Cavern bingo
  
  And don’t miss the 650-year-old Longshen Rice Terraces, 100km north of Guilin City, which drop like green dragon’s scales to a distant horizon, through steep valleys and over rugged ridges bingo
  
  YunnanChina’s Southwestern province is where the country gets tropical – with rainforests running along the borders with Vietnam and Laos and teak woodlands rising up the steep valleys of the rushing Mekong river bingo
  
  The views are jaw-dropping bingo
  
  In the north, around the medieval wooden Silk-weaving town of Lijiang, the Himalayas rise snowy above lakes dotted with Qing Dynasty pagodas to the high peaks of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountains bingo
  
  Just north of Lijiang, the tiny hamlets of the brightly dressed Nakhi indigenous people cling to the steep hills around the 3,000m-deep Tiger Leaping Gorge bingo
  
  And in the south, along the Dulong River and in the Xishuangbanna Tropical Rainforest National Park, mist rises from thick jungle dripping with waterfalls bingo
  
  Tigers still hunt here, for chevrotain deer as small as a rabbit and gaur bison, while gibbons whoop in the trees bingo
  
  ShanghaiNowhere is China’s economic miracle more obvious than the country’s greatest mega city bingo
  
  Building-high digital murals flash and shimmer from the steel and glass spires bingo
  
  Maglev trains travelling at nearly 300 miles per hour whisk visitors from the airport to the sparkling new business district of Pudong, which until the 1990s was little more than a swamp on the banks of the Huangpu River bingo
  
  Now it’s home to the 632 metre-high Shanghai Tower and the Oriental Pearl, looking like a giant Tesla Tower topped with a needle bingo
  
  It’s all best seen from the Bund, once the riverfront of a European trading city established at battleship gunpoint by Britain, the US and France after the Opium Wars bingo
  
  And in the endless sprawl inland behind the river are magnificent museums and galleries and the gold stupas and gabled pagodas of Jing’an – the Temple of Peace and Tranquility, crouching next to the rushing West Nanjing road, lost in skyscrapers and haze bingo
  
  How to do Chinese New Year in ShanghaiBest under-the-radar destinationsHunanThe landscapes of Wulingyaun in Central China’s Hunan province are other-worldly, which is why perhaps James Cameron used them for his Eden-like paradise in Avatar: some 3,000 quartzite pillars shrouded with pines rise up to a kilometre high over the rushing Zhangjiajie River bingo
  
  Black bears, Chinese water deer and Asian Wild Dogs wander in bingo between through dense forest bingo
  
  You’ll need to hike to see the animals, but the pillars are easy to see bingo
  
  There’s even a lift – the world’s tallest – to whisk you from the riverbank to the best viewpoint, just outside Zhangjiajie City bingo
  
  Nanjing and YixingIt’s a puzzle why so few tourists make it to Jiangsu province; Nanjing the provincial capital is one of China’s four great imperial cities bingo
  
  And it’s a beauty: it’s monumental ancient walls, royal palaces, porcelain pagodas and Ming mausoleums are mirrored in the Yangtse river bingo
  
  Wandering the old stone city, with its narrow alleys and traditional tea shops, is a delight bingo
  
  There’s a lively restaurant and bar scene, a string of superb museums and plenty to see nearby bingo
  
  Top of the day-trip list Yixing – a 45-minute ride away by bullet train bingo
  
  The teapot was invented here, over a thousand years ago, crafted from Zisha purple clay bingo
  
  Today they are exquisitely decorated, collectible works of art crafted in little shops strung along ancient canals bingo
  
  In 2013, an antique Yixing engraved teapot made by master ceramicist Gu Jingzhou auctioned for $2m in Beijing bingo
  
  Denfeng and ShaolinYou may not have heard of gorgeous Denfeng, but this little city set in rolling mountains was once known as “the Centre of Heaven and Earth” bingo
  
  It’s sprinkled with astonishing temples and monuments – the 3,000-year-old Goacheng Astronomical Observatory, the Huishan pagoda set in hills trilling with birdsong and Shaolin, a monastic complex perched on a mountain ridge and surrounded by a forest of stone pagodas where Kung Fu and Zen Buddhism were born bingo
  
  You can visit and watch the daily drills, or stay a while and learn martial arts and meditation bingo
  
  Best things to do See pandas in ChengduFinding giant pandas in the wild is a near impossibility bingo
  
  Even park rangers in the reserves dotting the mountain bamboo forests of Western China rarely see them bingo
  
  But it’s easy to hike through their habitat in Wolong Nature Reserve (three hours north of Chengdu City) and then see the animals up close at the Wolong Panda Center, where you can volunteer to feed the bears or clean out one of their enclosures (if you’ve the stomach for it) bingo
  
  Chengdu: Pandas and skyscrapers in China’s flourishing megacityWalk the Great WallChina’s Great Wall boggles the mind: allowing for overlapping sections, it extends for a distance equivalent to half the circumference of the Earth bingo
  
  So you can’t walk it all bingo
  
  Most visitors opt for the beautifully restored section at Mutianyu, 45km north of Beijing bingo
  
  For a longer hike, go further north to Jinshanling (two hours’ drive from Beijing) and day walk the section from here to Simatai through semi-wild, rugged country bingo
  
  Five ways to see the Great Wall of ChinaWander the gardens of SuzhouFor over a thousand years, classical Chinese gardens – with their carefully curated, semi-wild landscapes dotted with pavilions and naturally sculpted rocks – were a place of retreat and contemplation for scholars bingo
  
  Many were lost in the Cultural Revolution but a handful of the most exquisite, dating from the Song and Ming dynasties, are preserved in Suzhou City in Jiangsu province bingo
  
  Wandering through the round gates is like entering a living Willow Pattern, with birds singing in the pines and little bridges spanning tinkling streams bingo
  
  And Suzhou City – with its 1,000-year-old leaning pagodas, canals and wooden bridges – makes the gardens an elegant overnight stop from nearby Nanjing bingo
  
  Contemplate the Buddha in LuoyangChina has four ancient capitals, considered the cradles of the country’s culture: Beijing, Xi’an, Nanjing and, probably the least visited, Luoyang bingo
  
  It’s a fascinating place, littered with ancient monuments – Neolithic settlements, 800-year-old astronomical observatories and a string of painted tombs bingo
  
  But the must-see attraction is the Longmen Grottoes: caves crammed with nearly 100,000 effigies of Buddhas and Boddhisattvas, some as small as a thumb, others as big as a bus bingo
  
  Getting aroundChina has an extensive aviation and high-speed rail network connecting all the major cities and most of the minor ones bingo
  
  But getting around can still be a challenge: there is little signage in English and few people speak anything but Chinese bingo
  
  Consider combining a package tour offered by companies like The China Travel Company with local specialist itineraries offered by operators like Yixing Yiyou (yxlondon@123 bingo
  
  com), who have excellent ceramic and art tours around Jiangsu, or China Highlights bingo
  
  Chinese-owned Trip bingo
  
  com is an excellent bingo online resource for multi or single day trips and excursions bingo
  
  How to get thereWhile China was very well connected to the UK prior to the pandemic, with direct or easy indirect flights to most of the main provincial capitals, at present flights from the UK with British Airways or Air China are restricted to Beijing and Shanghai bingo
  
  Changes are imminent bingo
  
  Money-saving tipBargaining is not just acceptable in China where prices are not listed, it is expected bingo
  
  This includes most markets – and in China you can buy pretty much anything in a market bingo
  
  FAQsWhat’s the weather like?Weather varies enormously bingo
  
  Summer in the centre and south can be sweltering, with high humidity and temperatures in the thirties bingo
  
  Shanghai and Yunnan are warm in winter, while temperatures in Harbin and Beijing fall well below zero bingo
  
  Autumn is the best season for Mediterranean warmth in most locations and bright, dry days bingo
  
  What time zone is it in?China has one time zone – Beijing time – GMT +8 bingo
  
  What currency do I need?YuanWhat language is spoken?Mandarin Chinese throughout the country and regional languages and dialects include Cantonese (Yue), Hunanese (Xiang) and Min bingo
  
  bingo
  
  

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